|7" x 10' x 5/4"|
|That's what it looks like before we turned most of it into sawdust|
Then ripped it into 3" wide strips
|Titebond III on the edges + bar clamps = take that hydraulic pressure you're no match for me|
|When doing this it's useful to alternate grain directions so if (when) the wood moves, the pieces move in opposing directions and maybe that will counteract it|
Which I then edge-glued back into a single panel
After gluing up the panel, the panel wasn't totally flush (the closer you are to gluing everything flush, the less that needs to be planed, so be better than I was when I did this). There's also some glue squeeze out along the seams. So, a few passes through the planer clean both faces up nicely.
Next, I set the rip fence to a bit over the approximate desired thickness of the cutting board, and using the cross cut sled (I know you're not really supposed to use both at the same time, but it works), crosscut the panel into strips that then you set on end, face-to-face, to create the board.
To secure the magnet, I cut one strip 3/16" narrower, drilled a 5/8" diameter hole on the drill press with a forstner bit to sink the magnet, glued the magnet in place with a little CA glue, and then glued a 3/16" slice onto the top of the strip, capping the magnet in place and making the strip the same size as all the others.
|I start by spreading glue out and trying to get close to all of the edges before spreading it over the entire surface|
|I try to get a thin layer over the entire face being glued|
|Yes, my glue bottle is a honey bear|
Next is gluing up the cutting board itself. I've seen people on the internet glue all of the pieces together in one go, but I've found that's hard to do. The visible surface forms a grid of sorts, so if something's out of alignment, it draws the eye. Glue, thanks to hydraulic pressure, means that when you clamp pieces together, they can slide a bit. Gluing three or four strips together at a time makes it much easier to correct any sliding and make sure the grid is clean and aligned. It means there's more glue-ups, but hey, that's the price of getting it to look right, eh?
|More squeeze out|
|You can see some unevenness and squeezout on the edges|
Crosscutting the both sides squares everything up.
|The honey bear glue bottle approves|
|There's really no caption that can make sanding end grain exciting|
I took the block plane and put a small chamfer on the edges. This both softens it to the eye and hand, but also means that any minor clunk or ding it might get in use will be less visible to the eye. Plus it meant I got to play with the hand plane.
Yes, I carved my initials in it because I am vain.
The client requested a design burned into the board. The inspiration was sort of the idea of a couple putting their initials on a tree trunk. This is how it turned out.